
Brett_Hondow/iStock Editorial through Getty Photos
It has been nearly two years since my first article on shoe firm Designer Manufacturers (NYSE:DBI). Sufficient attention-grabbing developments have taken place {that a} observe up is warranted. Moreover, it additionally provides me the chance to investigate the conclusions of the first article.
On this article, I’ll first focus on Designer Manufacturers’ efficiency over the past two years. Secondly, I wish to shortly dive into my conclusions of two years in the past. Lastly, we are going to focus on why Designer Manufacturers on the present valuation may be very doubtless going to be a very good funding over the approaching years.
Recovering from the pandemic and reworking the enterprise:
The final two years have been a combined bag for DBI. Whereas the enterprise has carried out properly sufficient within the unsure COVID restoration period, it was additionally simply that… a restoration. When the corporate report its full yr 2022 outcomes they will almost certainly are available with gross sales a bit under or at par with the final pre-COVID full yr of 2019.
Nonetheless, I feel traders ought to applaud that efficiency. DBI’s enterprise was particularly hit laborious by the pandemic due to their massive providing of formal and gown sneakers. By retaining their robust place on this class whereas rising the gross sales of informal and athleisure footwear, DBI had a powerful restoration yr in fiscal 2021. Internet revenue got here in at $150+ or greater than $2 a share. Solely gross sales lagged nonetheless in comparison with fiscal 2019 being $300 million decrease coming in at $3.2 billion. Nonetheless this consequence was nice because the revenue for fiscal 2019 got here in at solely $94 million.
All appeared to be going properly proper up till the tip of 2021 when Nike (NKE) announced it would stop selling shoes to DSW. Nike for the final years has been slowly shifting away from promoting its model via different retail chains in favor of its DTC channel and its personal retail shops.
With Nike accounting for 7% of fiscal 2020 gross sales, it was a large if not surmountable hit for DBI. Within the first 9 months of fiscal 2022 it seems to be like DBI has been ready to deal with the setback moderately properly. Earnings for the primary 9 months have are available at $1.60 a share. Full yr expectations are DBI will earn round $1.75 a share. Evaluating this to pre-Covid 2019 when the corporate earned $1.47 a share and it reveals how properly DBI has been ready to deal with the pandemic the final 3 years. Whereas “government victory laps” on earnings calls needs to be discounted, I consider the next quote by CFO Jared Poff sums up DBI’s accomplishments fairly properly:

Quote from CFO Jared Poff in Q3 2022 Earnings name transcript (In search of Alpha, Q3 2022 Earnings name transcript)
Plainly the 2018 Vince Cameo acquisition and three way partnership and the elevated concentrate on athletic footwear have reworked DBI for the higher. With owned manufacturers now producing 27% of income in Q3 of 2022 (in comparison with 22% in Q3 of 2021) DBI is has elevated its potential to extend gross margins. With the corporate aiming to get owned model gross sales to 33% of income by 2026, there may be probably extra upside on this entrance.
With the pandemic now squarely within the rearview mirror (knock on wooden), DBI has been capable of actually rework the corporate within the final couple of years by growing digital penetration, diversifying its product vary and integrating the Vince Camuto and Canadian retail acquisitions.
Plainly DBI’s long-term CEO Roger Rawlins got here to the identical conclusion as he stepped down starting of this January in favor of the President of DSW, Doug Howe. Within the press launch DBI hinted this was a transition deliberate properly prematurely. The truth that Rawlins will stay within the function until April 1st after which function an advisor to the corporate underscores this. Whereas CEO transitions at all times create some uncertainty, this one doesn’t appear to vary the equation a lot. Nonetheless, I do consider Rawlins has been an awesome CEO for DBI, so due to this fact the change will be seen as a slight unfavorable as the brand new CEO has a excessive bar to clear.
Within the same press release, DBI talked about an necessary piece of knowledge. In the course of the customary accolades bestowed upon Rawlins within the press launch Government Chairman Jay Schottenstein careworn one thing necessary:
“Roger has been on the forefront of Designer Manufacturers’ transformation from a shoe retailer to a model builder. From launching DSW.com, which now accounts for over $1 billion in demand,….”
If DBI’s e-commerce actions are producing $1 billion plus in gross sales this implies at the very least 30% of present gross sales are digital. In my view this excessive digital penetration is a superb indicator of the latest profitable transformation the corporate has been via. With gross margins and earnings above pre-pandemic ranges whereas producing 30% plus in e-commerce gross sales reveals Designer Manufacturers has been capable of profitably transition a part of their gross sales on-line.
Dissecting previous predictions
Having mentioned DBI’s efficiency over the past two years, it’s only logical to take a look at how my conclusions from two years in the past have fared. Anybody who’s can learn the complete article here. The simplest begin level is after all evaluating my purchase score (arguably a very powerful conclusion in an article) with DBI’s precise efficiency. Sadly, for me this preliminary evaluation doesn’t look nice.

In search of Alpha, DBI efficiency overview
DBI primarily traded between $12 and $20 for the final two years. Solely lately did the share value decline meaningfully under this vary to its present $10 a share. Subsequently, at first sight my purchase score clearly doesn’t look nice. Nonetheless, over the past two years I’ve not owned a share of DBI. Solely lately because the share value dropped under $10 did I provoke a place. This appears contradictory, nevertheless it follows the technique I specified by my first article.
At first of 2021 DBI’s efficiency was nonetheless hurting badly because of the pandemic whereas its stability sheet was weakened because of latest acquisitions, share buybacks and COVID-19 losses. At round $13 a share, with some weak quarters forecasted, I figured DBI’s share value would possibly be capable to decline again to mid single digits. I argued that if this have been to occur (it didn’t) I might have purchased a large place. The remainder of the article I argued that at these depressed costs DBI’s future was vivid sufficient to make a large return regardless of the nonetheless looming pandemic issues and its weakened stability sheet.
As one can see within the graph above, my expectation of a share value decline within the first half of 2021 didn’t happen as DBI’s share value truly marched additional upwards in the direction of $20 a share. I clearly didn’t revenue from this value advance as I used to be solely prepared to purchase shares into the one digits.
The primary cause why DBI’s share value by no means hit my desired shopping for vary was as a result of it carried out considerably higher than I anticipated two years in the past. However, the nonetheless current pandemic overhang and stability sheet issues additionally ensured that the share value by no means actually took off.
The primary takeaway of this little overview of my previous predictions reveals how unstable and unsure the way forward for enterprise will be. In fact it was much more true this time round due to COVID and the uncharted territory firms have been in to foretell how the restoration was going to play out. Even DBI itself thought it will do massively worse in 2021 than they really did. Nonetheless, it additionally reveals as soon as extra why having a margin of security is so necessary. This time round my expectations have been too unfavorable, which didn’t value me something (settle for some potential features). Had DBI’s efficiency been truly on par with my predictions and even worse I protected myself in opposition to shopping for the inventory too excessive and would have solely pulled the set off at $7 or under.
However, ultimately DBI’s higher than anticipated monetary and operational efficiency over the past two years supported the share value sufficient that shares didn’t attain single digits up till final quarter. That’s the predominant factor we now have to concentrate on for the rest of the article. The previous has been, however a brand new alternative is likely to be in entrance of us.
Valuation and future efficiency
To this point we now have established that DBI carried out fairly properly the final couple years. This efficiency was overshadowed by the pandemic holding the inventory value down. After initialing elevating steerage throughout fiscal 2022 ultimately administration reversed again to its unique steerage with earnings of round $1.75 a share for fiscal 2022. The rationale they gave throughout Q3 was a major decelerate on the finish of October that continued into This fall. As occurs extra usually, traders have been targeted on these near-term headwinds and DBI has dropped round 33% since Q3 outcomes have been introduced. I feel that on the present value DBI is a superb funding for the longer-term. The three predominant causes for my view come from:
- The present valuation
- Potential future gross sales progress
- Shareholder pleasant administration
Valuation
With 63.6 million shares excellent as of the tip of November 2022, DBI’s market cap is presently round 650 million {dollars}. Within the newest 10-Q web debt stood at $350 million. Nonetheless, the 10-Q additionally reported that DBI has lastly acquired the vast majority of the tax refund it was owed because of the CARES act. This represents a money influx of $120 million whereas the final $40 million needs to be refunded inside 12 months. Precise web debt will due to this fact be nearer to $230 million in This fall of this yr (not relying on any free money stream). This offers DBI an Enterprise Worth of about $880 million.
As we noticed, DBI’s present efficiency is definitely higher than earlier than the pandemic. Moreover, up until 2019 DBI had no debt whereas over the past three years web debt has hovered between $150-350 million. This has added about $20-30 million in prices to DBI over the past couple years. This debt was first taken on due to the Vince Camuto acquisition and was sustained in all probability longer than regular due to the pandemic. On prime of this, DBI truly repurchased a major quantity of shares in fiscal 2022 – reducing share rely by about 11 million shares by spending $150 million this yr.
With the tax refund, web debt will in all probability decline under $200 million in fiscal 2023 and is likely to be decreased additional if free money stream is used to pay down debt. As this debt has a variable rate of interest the present price setting would possibly entice DBI to concentrate on debt pay down in fiscal 2023 and past. If made a precedence, DBI might pay down all its debt inside two years and thereby add a simple $20 million again to web revenue.
If we have a look at earnings and money stream over the past couple years, we will see that DBI constantly achieved working money stream within the vary of $150-$200 million. With CAPEX between $50-80 million over the past couple years FCF of a $100 million plus has been the norm. Utilizing this determine would indicate DBI is presently valued at round a 8-9x FCF/EV a number of. Whereas this isn’t costly by any means it doesn’t indicate a discount value both.
However, I feel that DBI has a variety of room to develop its monetary efficiency within the coming years. Not solely can debt pay down enhance FCF by at the very least $20 million, DBI can now additionally absolutely concentrate on rising its enterprise put up 2018 acquisitions and the pandemic. The corporate has labored laborious to make itself extra resilient and prepared for coming years. Key differentiators in contrast to a few years in the past are:
- DBI’s product line is extra balanced and diversified.
- E-commerce accounts for 30% plus of its whole gross sales.
- Its owned manufacturers are rising quickly and supply DBI with the potential for gross margin growth.
Potential future gross sales progress
Moreover, earlier than the pandemic Designer Manufacturers was additionally an organization steadily rising its gross sales by 5-10% yearly. Really, DBI had grown its gross sales for 28 consecutive years in a row (DBI investor Presentation 2019).
Solely the pandemic was capable of cease this spectacular run. It seems to be like fiscal 2022 gross sales will come near 2019. Subsequently 2023 may very well be the primary yr gross sales surpass 2019 ranges once more and the corporate resumes its regular progress trajectory. In fact that is removed from sure. The nice factor with DBI is that traders don’t even want important gross sales progress with the intention to be rewarded with inventory market features over the approaching years. The corporate truly must clear fairly a low bar to make it a worthwhile funding. To underscore this, let’s assume the next situation:
Key figures |
Fiscal 2022 |
Fiscal 2023 |
Fiscal 2024 |
Fiscal 2025 |
Gross sales |
3400 |
3500 |
3500 |
3500 |
Internet revenue |
110 |
150 |
150 |
150 |
Internet revenue margin |
3.2% |
4.3% |
4.3% |
4.3% |
Free Money Move |
40 |
150 |
150 |
150 |
Shares excellent |
64 |
64 |
60 |
55 |
Earnings per share |
US$ 1.72 |
US$ 2.34 |
US$ 2.50 |
US$ 2.73 |
Internet Debt |
230 |
40 |
-40 |
-100 |
(Desk made by creator: numbers are primarily based of most up-to-date 10-Q, 10-Okay and 2022 Investor Deck)
On this situation we conservatively anticipate that DBI will produce no further FCF in This fall of 2022 in comparison with the Q3 determine because it pays down accounts payables and accrued bills. Moreover, for the approaching three years we assume no further gross sales progress. The one enchancment projected over fiscal 2022 figures is the removing of rates of interest funds which have run yearly at $20-30 million and a slight margin enchancment.
If this situation have been to play out traders within the inventory would personal an organization on the finish of 2025 with a 100 million of web money, whereas shares excellent have been decreased by 15% from present figures. A six time FCF/EV a number of would yield a valuation of $1 billion or greater than $18 a share. We shouldn’t neglect that the above projected numbers are by no means a stretch. If any it’s almost certainly too conservative figuring out DBI is presently in a greater place operationally than earlier than the pandemic. Upside may very well be approach greater. For instance, if gross sales continue to grow at 5% a yr DBI would come near 4 billion in gross sales in 2025. Administration agrees with this evaluation as they’ve guided for gross sales to hit $4 billion by 2026.

DBI 2022 Investor Day (Designer Manufacturers 2022 Investor Day)
Shareholder pleasant administration
Lastly, we now have to say DBI’s traditionally shareholder pleasant insurance policies. During the last decade administration has constantly repurchased a considerable quantity shares every time they deemed the businesses share value low sufficient. The corporate additionally had a dependable dividend that stood at $1 a share proper earlier than the pandemic. After slicing the dividend throughout the pandemic the corporate now pays a modest $0.20 a share per yr. I consider the corporate’s latest share repurchases are the rationale the dividend has not been raised but. The corporate is aware of so long as their shares commerce under $15 a share it’s far more useful to repurchase shares. However one other good indication that DBI is presently undervalued is the truth that it might simply pay $1 a share dividend going ahead. This is able to give traders a ten% dividend yield whereas the pay-out ratio would barely be 50% of a traditional yr of Free Money Move.
Conclusion
During the last years Designer Manufacturers has made its enterprise extra resilient and versatile whereas steadily recovering from the pandemic. With a strong e-commerce and owned model enterprise it has a strong basis for future gross sales progress and margin growth. With greater than 25% of its present Enterprise Worth being debt, the corporate has a strong alternative to pay down debt growing its monetary basis whereas elevating earnings because of declining curiosity funds. At the moment traders can belief administration to make shareholder pleasant selections with regard to share repurchases and dividends. Even a comparatively mediocre efficiency over the approaching years can simply lead to a 80% plus achieve. If DBI performs even a bit higher than this, FCF can simply creep in the direction of $200 million a yr making the present market cap of $650 million seem like a steal.
In fact, the scary recession would possibly current itself in 2023 throwing a short-term wrench in DBI’s efficiency. Nonetheless, this could not injury DBI’s long-term future or skill to attain correct monetary outcomes. It is likely to be even useful for shareholders as administration is likely to be given the chance to repurchase much more shares at discount costs. I really feel very comfy holding a place in DBI at present costs and averaging down if given the prospect.